When I Revive a vintage axe it requires a lot of time and work. The rust removal process can take days or just minutes depending on the condition of the head. Getting the head back to a vintage look after removing the rust isn’t easy either. Pole repair is a delicate job done with a less than delicate tool, the angle grinder! The handle and head fitting requires very physical work with a draw knife and a lot of sanding. Bit sharpening is dirty work and sometimes your knuckles get into the belt sander instead! Every step is calculated and each step in a specific order. The result is the best looking and structurally sound axe I can build! I strive for a mix of fresh, sharp and clean edges using gorgeous woods with pure deep penetrating colors and grain with a vintage flare! I try to match the hafts in the most historically accurate way. If I have the old handle I’ll use it as a template to shape the new handle. All of this isn’t necessary to restore an axe to a usable state, but it is necessary in my book to restore an axe to a trophy state! I believe in an axe that can be used and not just admired; so whatever you decide to do with your new Vintage Axe Revival axe is up to you
When I sharpen your axe I take care to give the bit a proper angle for the axes purpose. On double bit axes the felling side of the axe gets a thinner cutting edge and the swamping side gets a more convex durable edge for working close to the ground or debarking where sand, grit and rocks could damage a thinner bit edge. Sometimes this means thinning the cheeks of the head to get the correct angle but it’s all in a day’s work to get just the right edge.
Want that axe to look sharp as well as be sharp? Lets polish that bit! After I sharpen your axe I polish the bit to a mirror finish. Then I use a leather strop one more time to refine the edge. This polished edge helps the axe glide through wood and gives the edge longevity and durability for all day cutting! It also helps protect it from rust and pitting.
With each axe I sell you have the option of a custom sheath
Some very collectible and good quality vintage axes got used hard! In fact it’s usually the really prized axes that were made for expert cutters of the day that end up worn and tattered. The Poles were used to pound in metal felling wedges and the poles were damaged to a point where if you used the axe there’s a chance the mushroomed part could break off and deflect into someone’s eye or face at a very high speed. So it’s important to repair them if the axe will be used. And, I can fix damaged poles to look almost new and bring that axe back to a safe and serviceable shape.
With each axe I sell you have the option of a lanyard.
Don’t lean that new axe against the wall which can warp the handle over time. Instead hang it on a leather lanyard! I drill out and chamfer the handle and cut a thick leather lanyard held with a 10oz leather keeper.